Saturday, March 29, 2014

Nebbiolo- The King of Piedmont

Italy has many famous regions that produce outstanding wines, but I would say that one of my absolute favorites is Nebbiolo from Northwest Piedmont.

Nebbiolo as a grape is high in alcohol, acidity, and tannin creating a very powerful wine. What makes this grape so unique is that all that power is balanced by an ethereal, perfumy, lightness, with a color that is moderate due to it's very thin skins. The captivating aromas of tar, leather, and spice meld deliciously together with nuances of rose petals, dried red fruits,and cinnamon. The flavors are savory, sweet, and spicy in lieu of fruity, rich, and jammy.

Two of the most famous areas for Nebbiolo wines are Barolo and Barbaresco. This is also the name of the wine, which is indicated on the label along with the name of the producer. Barolo is typically more powerful than Barbaresco, which tends to be softer and ready to drink earlier. Barolo can age for decades in the bottle before the high tannin content settles out, mellowing and softening the wine.

Barolo, the king of the region, can be produced in 11 communes with the 5 communes of  Barolo and La Morra in the west, and Serralunga d'Alba, Montforte d'Alba, and Castiglione Falletto in the east, comprising 90% of the wine. Only certain areas with attributes can fully ripen the Nebbiologrape that requires a very long growing season. Also, certain soil differences in each commune contribute subtle differences in the wines.

There are two main soil types in Barolo for growing Nebbiolo; Helevetian sandstone  in the east and Tortonian soils in the west. Helevetian soils provide more structure to the wines, allowing for longer aging. Tortonian soils  have more calcareous marl and produce softer wines. Regardless of soil, Barolo is a massively tannic wine by nature that needs time in the bottle to mature.

Today by law, Barolo must spend 38 months aging before release, with 18 months spent in oak barrels. A Barolo Riserva must age for 62 months. Barbaresco a minimum of 24 months, with 12 months in oak.

Historically, longer aging periods were required in large neutral oak casks, with longer maceration of the grapes( left on the skins). These wines required years even decades of cellaring before the wines were approachable to drink. Today there are producers that are using techniques such as shorter macerations, and smaller oak barriques for aging that give softer , rounder, more approachable wines in youth.

Nebbiolo is also produced outside of Barolo in Ghemme and Gattinara, both in Piedmont. These wines are often blended with the native grape varieties of Bonarda and Vespolina, where as, Barolo and Barbaresco must be 100% Nebbiolo. In neighboring Lombardy, Nebbiolo is the main grape component of Valtellina Superiore as well.

Nebbiolo certainly requires food because it is such a big wine. Lighter styles pair with salami, pates, and lighter meat dishes. Bigger styles with hearty fare such as beef casseroles and slowly braised meats for this substantial wine.

Remember, this is not a wine for the meek, but if you are willing to spend a few dollars on a bottle of Nebbiolo, this wine can be mesmerizing.

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