Sunday, April 27, 2014

Stylistical Approach to Pinot Gris/ Grigio

Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are two names fotr the same grape variety. The Pinot Gris of France became the Pinot Grigio of Italy when it was planted there. Although they are the same grape they are referred to as being associated with different styles of wine. Pinot Gris is used in the Alsace region of France and, also in Oregon. In California, Australia, and Italy the wine is referred to as Pinot Grigio.

Pinot Gris/ Grigio is a wine that does not get much respect. It is known by many as a quaffer that is generally sold by the glass on restaurant wine lists, with the bottle selections some of the slowest selling on the page. As often as the more quality focused wines are overlooked most people really do enjoy them, and generally admit that they forget about the nicer wines in lieu of a different variety.

Admittedly, the wines that are sold by the glass are extremely light not showcasing brilliant fruit flavors, and other varieties can be packed full of flavor. Pinot Gris/ Grigio is a lighter style of wine by design. It has characteristic aromas and flavors of apple, lemon, peach, minerals, and almonds.  The acidity can be low to high depending on where it is grown.

In Alsace, Pinot Gris is at home where it has been grown since the 1500's. France produces more Pinot Gris than any other country. The grapes ripen slowly and maintain good acidity due to a large diurnal temperature swing. Alsace is cool, but the vines are bathed in sunshine allowing the grapes to ripen slowly developing more complex aromatics. The style of wine is richer and sometimes floral with a medium to full body, and an almost oily texture. The wines can be very long lived.

Oregon Pinot Gris is styled after Alsace, and is also a cool marginal climate for viticulture. Since Pinot Gris is an early ripening variety it matches the shorter growing season in Oregon. The wines here can be a darker color of copper pink with crisp lively flavors of melon, pear, and apple. When allowed to hang on the vines longer the wines are richer and sweeter. These wines are a great alternative to Chardonnay. Here the wine should be drank within 2 to 6 years.

Another popular growing region is Italy. Here Pinot Grigio is grown in the northeastern areas of Friuli, Trentino- Alto Adige, and Veneto.  The wines tend to be more mineral driven thanks to heavy concentrations of limestone soils where the vines are mostly planted. The wines show light and lean with  light color, and the better areas developing more complexity and minerality from the grapes.

Then we have California. Here the wines ae generally light and sometimes showing a touch sweeter with lower levels of acid. These are not usually designated to the better sites and can rarely show much complexity. Most often mass produced and sold at a relatively low price.

Lastly, there is Germany's Grauer Burgunder (AKA Pinot Grigio), which represents a sleeker and drier style allowing the wine to be more compatible with food.

Whether it be Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris the styles can represent different aromatics and textural sensations when enjoyed. Although the flavors can be relatively close there is more to this wine than simple patio sippers. If you enjoy Pinot Grigio I would recommend an Alsatian or Oregon Pinot Gris to really experience what this grape is capable of producing. All Pinot Grigio wines will be to a certain extent lighter in style, and are great accompaniments to salads and lighter seafood dishes. The wines are most often fermented in stainless steel at cool temperatures to allow the fruit to stay fresh and the wine to remain crisp. Either way, this white wine is sure to please in the heat of the summer.

Sunday, April 20, 2014

Discover Rioja

Spanish wines are picking up the pace in the United States, because once they are tasted they lure you in with their power and elegance. Understanding Rioja can be a bit more tricky, however, but once understood its time to start exploring.

Winemaking in Rioja dates back more than 1,200 years and is steeped in history as most wines of Europe are. The wineries were actually established by a growing community of sheep farmers, and were traditionally vinified for communal purposes for the Catholic churches. Today Spain is the number three importer behind France and Italy.

In Rioja the queen of grapes is the Tempranillo which covers 80% of vineyard land there. Most of the red wines are made primarily from this grape, which displays aromas and flavors of red fruits with soft tannins when young,and developing earthy aromas and flavors with age. There are four other grapes grown in Rioja that add complexity and balance to the vines. These grapes include Garnacha Tinta, Graciano, and Mazuelo. In various proportions they add color, acid, and alcohol to the blend.

Rioja is also labeled and shows different characters depending on its age. The youngest wine category is Consecha. These wines are indicated by an olive green label on the back of the bottle. They must be aged for less than one year in oak and less than one year in the bottle before release. They are meant to drink young, fairly inexpensive, and show fruitier, jammy flavors. The next category is Crianza, which has to age at least one year in cask and one year in bottle. These wines start to develop more complexity from their aging requirement and can start to show different layers of complexity. The wines are indicated by a red label on the back of the bottle. Next is Resrva indicated by a a burgundy back label. These wines must age for one full year in cask and two years in bottle. The wines have more depth of flavor and come from the better vineyards of the region. Lastly, is Gran Reserva. This wine is indicated by a royal blue label, showing the royalty of the wine in this region. Grapes are picked from the best vineyards and must age for two full years in cask and three years in bottle. The wines can last for fifteen to twenty years developing layers upon layers of flavors of fruit, earth, and even mushroom.

The most common white wine is Viura. This wine tastes fresh and crisp with apple and citrus flavors. Other grape varieties include Malvasia, and Garnacha Blanca which can be added in various proportions.

The reds are best enjoyed with various meat dishes and can even go well with difficult food pairings such as Indian curry dishes. Overall the reds are very versatile. The whites are fabulous with seafood and are great summer sippers. Either way, try something new and exciting from the typical wines on the grocery store shelves. Discover the number one wine in Spain; Rioja.

Sunday, April 6, 2014

The Wines of Chile

The wines of South America are known to be sources of value for wine consumers. As they become further engrained in their winemaking expertise, the wines are also proving to be world class.

Chile is a 2,700 hundred mile ribbon of land that is set between the Andes Mountains and the Pacific Ocean. With an average width of 110 miles you are never more than a two hour drive from the ocean. It is a dynamic area for grape growing with the frigid Pacific to the west sheltered by the snow capped Andes Mountains. To the north is the arid Atacama- the driest desert in the world, and to the south the ice flows of the Antarctica. The climate is Mediterranean with large temperature swings between the day and night, perfect for ripening grapes slowly, while maintaining acid levels.

One of the most unique facts about Chile is that phylloxera has never been present. Phylloxera devestated crops in Europe and the New World wine growing regions. The isolation of Chile is responsible for this and accounts for the amount of old vine vineyards in the region.

Chile is currently divided into 14 wine growing regions offering a diversity of altitude and soil types for  growing grapes.It's virtual lack of humidity and predominately sandy soils lessens the need for pesticides and fertilizers, so viticulture is naturally eco friendly.

The grapes are three quarter red varieties, with Cabernet Sauvignon being the most widely planted, accounting for more than 75% of vineyard land. Merlot is the next most popular, followed by Carmenere, Syrah, and Pinot Noir. With the white grapes Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc
 tied for second place of all grapes grown.

The good news is that the recent earthquakes left all of the vineyards mainly untouched, so rest assured you will be able to find plenty of wine from Chile in the years to come.


Saturday, March 29, 2014

Nebbiolo- The King of Piedmont

Italy has many famous regions that produce outstanding wines, but I would say that one of my absolute favorites is Nebbiolo from Northwest Piedmont.

Nebbiolo as a grape is high in alcohol, acidity, and tannin creating a very powerful wine. What makes this grape so unique is that all that power is balanced by an ethereal, perfumy, lightness, with a color that is moderate due to it's very thin skins. The captivating aromas of tar, leather, and spice meld deliciously together with nuances of rose petals, dried red fruits,and cinnamon. The flavors are savory, sweet, and spicy in lieu of fruity, rich, and jammy.

Two of the most famous areas for Nebbiolo wines are Barolo and Barbaresco. This is also the name of the wine, which is indicated on the label along with the name of the producer. Barolo is typically more powerful than Barbaresco, which tends to be softer and ready to drink earlier. Barolo can age for decades in the bottle before the high tannin content settles out, mellowing and softening the wine.

Barolo, the king of the region, can be produced in 11 communes with the 5 communes of  Barolo and La Morra in the west, and Serralunga d'Alba, Montforte d'Alba, and Castiglione Falletto in the east, comprising 90% of the wine. Only certain areas with attributes can fully ripen the Nebbiologrape that requires a very long growing season. Also, certain soil differences in each commune contribute subtle differences in the wines.

There are two main soil types in Barolo for growing Nebbiolo; Helevetian sandstone  in the east and Tortonian soils in the west. Helevetian soils provide more structure to the wines, allowing for longer aging. Tortonian soils  have more calcareous marl and produce softer wines. Regardless of soil, Barolo is a massively tannic wine by nature that needs time in the bottle to mature.

Today by law, Barolo must spend 38 months aging before release, with 18 months spent in oak barrels. A Barolo Riserva must age for 62 months. Barbaresco a minimum of 24 months, with 12 months in oak.

Historically, longer aging periods were required in large neutral oak casks, with longer maceration of the grapes( left on the skins). These wines required years even decades of cellaring before the wines were approachable to drink. Today there are producers that are using techniques such as shorter macerations, and smaller oak barriques for aging that give softer , rounder, more approachable wines in youth.

Nebbiolo is also produced outside of Barolo in Ghemme and Gattinara, both in Piedmont. These wines are often blended with the native grape varieties of Bonarda and Vespolina, where as, Barolo and Barbaresco must be 100% Nebbiolo. In neighboring Lombardy, Nebbiolo is the main grape component of Valtellina Superiore as well.

Nebbiolo certainly requires food because it is such a big wine. Lighter styles pair with salami, pates, and lighter meat dishes. Bigger styles with hearty fare such as beef casseroles and slowly braised meats for this substantial wine.

Remember, this is not a wine for the meek, but if you are willing to spend a few dollars on a bottle of Nebbiolo, this wine can be mesmerizing.

Sunday, March 23, 2014

Amarone: One of Italy's Greatest Wines

Amarone della Valpolicella is a big, rich, and dry red wine; one of Italy's greatest acheivements in winemaking. It comes from one of the most significant regions in Italy; Veneto. This region produces more wine than any other region in Italy. Located in the north-eastern sector, the regions capital and largest city is Venice. Veneto also produces more wine than any other region in Italy- much falls at a lower level of quality, but here Amarone is king.

The raisinated styles of Amarone della Valpolicella along with it's dessert style Recioto della Valpolicella represent the height of complexity in the Valpolicella region of Veneto. Amarone is made by apassimento process ,which adds complex dried fruit components and alcoholic warmth to the wines. The grapes are harvested at peak ripeness and left to dry in special lofts for at least three months, before fermentation, effectively concentrating their suger and extract. The wines are then fermented to dryness and aged in either large neutral casks, or smaller oak barrique barrels ,which add spice and density.

The wines are produced from the native Italian varieties of Corvina(45-95%), Rondinella(5-30%), and a maximum of 25% other grape varieties of which 10% must be native to Veneto, with no grape comprising more than 10% of the other grape varieties. The wines then must age for at least two years from January 1st, following the harvest. Riserva wines must age for four years from November 1st. Also, grapes may not be vinified before December 1st of the harvest year.

In Valpolicella there is the Classico area to the western end of the appellation, near the shores of Lake Garda that is known for some of the highest quality. Eastern areas of Valpantena and Ilasi can be equal in quality. The wines are often labeled according to the area in which the grapes are harvested. Classico (west), and Valpantena (east).

Basic Valpolicella wines are made from the same grape varieties as Amarone without the drying of the grapes, and since Amarone is in such high demand, it is mandated that not more than 65% of harvested grapes can be used for the making of Amarone.

In the glass the wine is powerful, ripe, raisiny, and dry possessing dark fruit flavors. Amarone's big flavors pair well with hearty dishes such as beef, game and stews.

Many that try Amarone for the first time are pleasantly surprised at how delicious this wine is. As in any style of wine, producer is key to quality. Some of my favorites are Sartori for a more approachable style; this is made from a lesser percentage of Corvina, Masi Costasera, and Bertani Valpolicella Valpantena. Bertani also makes vintage Amarone, but you will pay the high price of $100 a bottle and significantly higher for older vintages. Traditional Amarone can age and develop in the bottle for decades. To experience Amarone for the first time, seek out the producer Sartori for a price of about $35 a bottle.


Sunday, March 16, 2014

Mucat- The progenitor of grape varieties

Moscato is all the rage for wine drinkers, especially millenials, which is a category for those born after 1980. Young and old alike though, are purchasing this wine in vast quantities, and it has become one of the fastest growing categories for wine in the last few years.

Moscato is known for it's decadently sweet wines, that have flavors and aromas of orange blossom, apricots, and fresh picked peaches. The wine is considered a white wine, and has a golden colored hue.  It can be purchased as a still wine, slightly effervescent, or as fully sparkling spumante styles. Dry or sweet wines are produced however, and the Muscat grape is rarely subtle in its characteristics, regardless of how it is vinified. It is the one grape variety that actually tastes like grapes, and is grown for table grapes as well as wine production.

Moscato is not something new, it is known to be the first grape variety that is the progenitor to all other grape varieties. There are three types of Muscat that are grown to produce wine. The first is Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains, this is the oldest grape variety that we have, and is the star of Muscat. This type produces the most refined wines with intense flavors, showing more depth and complexity. Muscat of Alexandria is less refined, and also grown for table grapes in California. The wines can be intense but lack the complexity of Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains. Lastly, is Mucat Ottonel, it has less powerful aromas and lacks intensity.

Most wines that you find on grocery store shelfs labeled Moscato, are more than likely made from Muscat Alexandria grapes. Generally the grapes are grown in the Central Coast AVA in California. They are produced sweet, but will lack the intensity of a true Moscato d'Asti. This is a region in Piedmont, Italy that has been producing the most aromatic, deliciously sweet moscato wines, that show the complexity of Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains. Asti is also the area in Italy where Asti Spumante is produced. Martini and Rossi Asti Spumante has had its heyday, and millions of bottles have been enjoyed around the world. Most people still do not realize that this is made from their beloved Moscato. Producers of these wines are starting to label them as Asti Spumante Moscato to catch some of the action.

There are also other wines produced from this grape in even sweeter dessert styles, such as Vin Doux Naturels in France. These are made by adding pure grape spirit to the fermenting grape juice, arresting fermentation and leaving a residue of natural sugar in the wines. Usually these are sold in smaller bottles and are intoxicatingly complex, and deliciously sweet. These are also made from Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains grapes. Rutherglen Muscats from Australia have also gained recognition for their version of sticky sweet Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains.

These fragrant  Moscato wines range from delicate to syrupy. Delicate, grapy styles match up with spicy Thai or Indian food, and are delightful to enjoy on their own. Sweeter styles go with a wide range of desserts incorporating fruit.

So when you are at the store wondering what to buy, price is relevant. The lower priced bottles labeled Moscato will not be as intensely flavored as Moscato d' Asti. So if you want to get a true sense of the grape try something from the Asti region, one of the original homes of this glorious grape.

Enjoy your Moscato- there is much to love!

Sunday, March 9, 2014

Pinot Noir is a grape that I find fascinating , not only because it produces some of the greatest wine in the world, but it has a lightness and ethereal character that keeps you coming back for more.

Pinot Noir is a grape variety that is native to Burgundy, France. It can excel when Mother Nature provides the region with perfect growing conditions for the grape. That is just enough sun, with a dry, cool climate allowing for a long slow ripening period. Pinot Noir is finicky, demanding absolute perfect conditions to ripen fully. It's skin is thin making it susceptible to rot in humid environments, along with not being able to withstand excessive heat and hot sun.

Characteristics of the grape include aromas of raspberry, strawberry, cherry, lilac and forest floor, leather, even mushroom with an aged wine. Often finished wines are referred to in terms of texture, such as silk or satin.

Burgundy, France sets a standard for excellence with Pinot Noir wines, where the grape originated. On a fault line in an area known as the Côte d'Or , is where you will find some of the highest expressions possible in this grape. On marl and limestone soils that originated 180 to 170 million years ago, Cisterian monks have created 100% varietal wines  here since 200 AD.
Vineyard land is segmented in a hierarchy from Grand Cru, Premier Cru, and Village wines, with Grand Cru coming from the most exceptional vineyards, with perfect eastern exposure to the sun. The wines here can age for decades developing layers of complexities. Out of the top fifty most expensive wines in the world, two thirds are Burgundy. At a recent auction, Henri Jayer's 1987 Richebourg Grand Cru, from Domaine de la Romanee Conti, received $14,397 a bottle!
While these wines are obviously out of reach, with the exception of the extraordinarily wealthy, good Burgundy can be experienced at Village level for about $30.00 a bottle.

Other regions in the United States, such as Willamette Valley in Oregon, along with California's Central Coast, Carneros, Russian River, and Santa Barbera are also producing an array of delicious Pinot Noir.
Willamette, Oregon is most notably compared to that of Burgundy in regards to climate. Here the wines must be composed of  90%  of the grape variety, with quality conscience producers still making the wines with 100% of the grape variety.
In California many bargains can be found, but buyer beware, generally the fruity less expensive wines only need to be composed of 75% of Pinot Noir, with darker, richer grapes masking the subtlety of the Pinot Noir can offer.

You can find  Pinot Noir in many parts of the world such as Champagne producing delicious Blanc de Noirs Sparkling wines, Spatburgunder in Germany's cool marginal climate,  and New Zealand's Central Otago and Martinbourough, making wines with thrilling intensity.

One thing is for certain, there is much to be explored in this single grape variety. Once you discover it for yourself, it may too, become one of your personal favorites.