Sunday, March 23, 2014

Amarone: One of Italy's Greatest Wines

Amarone della Valpolicella is a big, rich, and dry red wine; one of Italy's greatest acheivements in winemaking. It comes from one of the most significant regions in Italy; Veneto. This region produces more wine than any other region in Italy. Located in the north-eastern sector, the regions capital and largest city is Venice. Veneto also produces more wine than any other region in Italy- much falls at a lower level of quality, but here Amarone is king.

The raisinated styles of Amarone della Valpolicella along with it's dessert style Recioto della Valpolicella represent the height of complexity in the Valpolicella region of Veneto. Amarone is made by apassimento process ,which adds complex dried fruit components and alcoholic warmth to the wines. The grapes are harvested at peak ripeness and left to dry in special lofts for at least three months, before fermentation, effectively concentrating their suger and extract. The wines are then fermented to dryness and aged in either large neutral casks, or smaller oak barrique barrels ,which add spice and density.

The wines are produced from the native Italian varieties of Corvina(45-95%), Rondinella(5-30%), and a maximum of 25% other grape varieties of which 10% must be native to Veneto, with no grape comprising more than 10% of the other grape varieties. The wines then must age for at least two years from January 1st, following the harvest. Riserva wines must age for four years from November 1st. Also, grapes may not be vinified before December 1st of the harvest year.

In Valpolicella there is the Classico area to the western end of the appellation, near the shores of Lake Garda that is known for some of the highest quality. Eastern areas of Valpantena and Ilasi can be equal in quality. The wines are often labeled according to the area in which the grapes are harvested. Classico (west), and Valpantena (east).

Basic Valpolicella wines are made from the same grape varieties as Amarone without the drying of the grapes, and since Amarone is in such high demand, it is mandated that not more than 65% of harvested grapes can be used for the making of Amarone.

In the glass the wine is powerful, ripe, raisiny, and dry possessing dark fruit flavors. Amarone's big flavors pair well with hearty dishes such as beef, game and stews.

Many that try Amarone for the first time are pleasantly surprised at how delicious this wine is. As in any style of wine, producer is key to quality. Some of my favorites are Sartori for a more approachable style; this is made from a lesser percentage of Corvina, Masi Costasera, and Bertani Valpolicella Valpantena. Bertani also makes vintage Amarone, but you will pay the high price of $100 a bottle and significantly higher for older vintages. Traditional Amarone can age and develop in the bottle for decades. To experience Amarone for the first time, seek out the producer Sartori for a price of about $35 a bottle.


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