Italy has many famous regions that produce outstanding wines, but I would say that one of my absolute favorites is Nebbiolo from Northwest Piedmont.
Nebbiolo as a grape is high in alcohol, acidity, and tannin creating a very powerful wine. What makes this grape so unique is that all that power is balanced by an ethereal, perfumy, lightness, with a color that is moderate due to it's very thin skins. The captivating aromas of tar, leather, and spice meld deliciously together with nuances of rose petals, dried red fruits,and cinnamon. The flavors are savory, sweet, and spicy in lieu of fruity, rich, and jammy.
Two of the most famous areas for Nebbiolo wines are Barolo and Barbaresco. This is also the name of the wine, which is indicated on the label along with the name of the producer. Barolo is typically more powerful than Barbaresco, which tends to be softer and ready to drink earlier. Barolo can age for decades in the bottle before the high tannin content settles out, mellowing and softening the wine.
Barolo, the king of the region, can be produced in 11 communes with the 5 communes of Barolo and La Morra in the west, and Serralunga d'Alba, Montforte d'Alba, and Castiglione Falletto in the east, comprising 90% of the wine. Only certain areas with attributes can fully ripen the Nebbiologrape that requires a very long growing season. Also, certain soil differences in each commune contribute subtle differences in the wines.
There are two main soil types in Barolo for growing Nebbiolo; Helevetian sandstone in the east and Tortonian soils in the west. Helevetian soils provide more structure to the wines, allowing for longer aging. Tortonian soils have more calcareous marl and produce softer wines. Regardless of soil, Barolo is a massively tannic wine by nature that needs time in the bottle to mature.
Today by law, Barolo must spend 38 months aging before release, with 18 months spent in oak barrels. A Barolo Riserva must age for 62 months. Barbaresco a minimum of 24 months, with 12 months in oak.
Historically, longer aging periods were required in large neutral oak casks, with longer maceration of the grapes( left on the skins). These wines required years even decades of cellaring before the wines were approachable to drink. Today there are producers that are using techniques such as shorter macerations, and smaller oak barriques for aging that give softer , rounder, more approachable wines in youth.
Nebbiolo is also produced outside of Barolo in Ghemme and Gattinara, both in Piedmont. These wines are often blended with the native grape varieties of Bonarda and Vespolina, where as, Barolo and Barbaresco must be 100% Nebbiolo. In neighboring Lombardy, Nebbiolo is the main grape component of Valtellina Superiore as well.
Nebbiolo certainly requires food because it is such a big wine. Lighter styles pair with salami, pates, and lighter meat dishes. Bigger styles with hearty fare such as beef casseroles and slowly braised meats for this substantial wine.
Remember, this is not a wine for the meek, but if you are willing to spend a few dollars on a bottle of Nebbiolo, this wine can be mesmerizing.
Saturday, March 29, 2014
Sunday, March 23, 2014
Amarone: One of Italy's Greatest Wines
Amarone della Valpolicella is a big, rich, and dry red wine; one of Italy's greatest acheivements in winemaking. It comes from one of the most significant regions in Italy; Veneto. This region produces more wine than any other region in Italy. Located in the north-eastern sector, the regions capital and largest city is Venice. Veneto also produces more wine than any other region in Italy- much falls at a lower level of quality, but here Amarone is king.
The raisinated styles of Amarone della Valpolicella along with it's dessert style Recioto della Valpolicella represent the height of complexity in the Valpolicella region of Veneto. Amarone is made by apassimento process ,which adds complex dried fruit components and alcoholic warmth to the wines. The grapes are harvested at peak ripeness and left to dry in special lofts for at least three months, before fermentation, effectively concentrating their suger and extract. The wines are then fermented to dryness and aged in either large neutral casks, or smaller oak barrique barrels ,which add spice and density.
The wines are produced from the native Italian varieties of Corvina(45-95%), Rondinella(5-30%), and a maximum of 25% other grape varieties of which 10% must be native to Veneto, with no grape comprising more than 10% of the other grape varieties. The wines then must age for at least two years from January 1st, following the harvest. Riserva wines must age for four years from November 1st. Also, grapes may not be vinified before December 1st of the harvest year.
In Valpolicella there is the Classico area to the western end of the appellation, near the shores of Lake Garda that is known for some of the highest quality. Eastern areas of Valpantena and Ilasi can be equal in quality. The wines are often labeled according to the area in which the grapes are harvested. Classico (west), and Valpantena (east).
Basic Valpolicella wines are made from the same grape varieties as Amarone without the drying of the grapes, and since Amarone is in such high demand, it is mandated that not more than 65% of harvested grapes can be used for the making of Amarone.
In the glass the wine is powerful, ripe, raisiny, and dry possessing dark fruit flavors. Amarone's big flavors pair well with hearty dishes such as beef, game and stews.
Many that try Amarone for the first time are pleasantly surprised at how delicious this wine is. As in any style of wine, producer is key to quality. Some of my favorites are Sartori for a more approachable style; this is made from a lesser percentage of Corvina, Masi Costasera, and Bertani Valpolicella Valpantena. Bertani also makes vintage Amarone, but you will pay the high price of $100 a bottle and significantly higher for older vintages. Traditional Amarone can age and develop in the bottle for decades. To experience Amarone for the first time, seek out the producer Sartori for a price of about $35 a bottle.
The raisinated styles of Amarone della Valpolicella along with it's dessert style Recioto della Valpolicella represent the height of complexity in the Valpolicella region of Veneto. Amarone is made by apassimento process ,which adds complex dried fruit components and alcoholic warmth to the wines. The grapes are harvested at peak ripeness and left to dry in special lofts for at least three months, before fermentation, effectively concentrating their suger and extract. The wines are then fermented to dryness and aged in either large neutral casks, or smaller oak barrique barrels ,which add spice and density.
The wines are produced from the native Italian varieties of Corvina(45-95%), Rondinella(5-30%), and a maximum of 25% other grape varieties of which 10% must be native to Veneto, with no grape comprising more than 10% of the other grape varieties. The wines then must age for at least two years from January 1st, following the harvest. Riserva wines must age for four years from November 1st. Also, grapes may not be vinified before December 1st of the harvest year.
In Valpolicella there is the Classico area to the western end of the appellation, near the shores of Lake Garda that is known for some of the highest quality. Eastern areas of Valpantena and Ilasi can be equal in quality. The wines are often labeled according to the area in which the grapes are harvested. Classico (west), and Valpantena (east).
Basic Valpolicella wines are made from the same grape varieties as Amarone without the drying of the grapes, and since Amarone is in such high demand, it is mandated that not more than 65% of harvested grapes can be used for the making of Amarone.
In the glass the wine is powerful, ripe, raisiny, and dry possessing dark fruit flavors. Amarone's big flavors pair well with hearty dishes such as beef, game and stews.
Many that try Amarone for the first time are pleasantly surprised at how delicious this wine is. As in any style of wine, producer is key to quality. Some of my favorites are Sartori for a more approachable style; this is made from a lesser percentage of Corvina, Masi Costasera, and Bertani Valpolicella Valpantena. Bertani also makes vintage Amarone, but you will pay the high price of $100 a bottle and significantly higher for older vintages. Traditional Amarone can age and develop in the bottle for decades. To experience Amarone for the first time, seek out the producer Sartori for a price of about $35 a bottle.
Sunday, March 16, 2014
Mucat- The progenitor of grape varieties
Moscato is all the rage for wine drinkers, especially millenials, which is a category for those born after 1980. Young and old alike though, are purchasing this wine in vast quantities, and it has become one of the fastest growing categories for wine in the last few years.
Moscato is known for it's decadently sweet wines, that have flavors and aromas of orange blossom, apricots, and fresh picked peaches. The wine is considered a white wine, and has a golden colored hue. It can be purchased as a still wine, slightly effervescent, or as fully sparkling spumante styles. Dry or sweet wines are produced however, and the Muscat grape is rarely subtle in its characteristics, regardless of how it is vinified. It is the one grape variety that actually tastes like grapes, and is grown for table grapes as well as wine production.
Moscato is not something new, it is known to be the first grape variety that is the progenitor to all other grape varieties. There are three types of Muscat that are grown to produce wine. The first is Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains, this is the oldest grape variety that we have, and is the star of Muscat. This type produces the most refined wines with intense flavors, showing more depth and complexity. Muscat of Alexandria is less refined, and also grown for table grapes in California. The wines can be intense but lack the complexity of Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains. Lastly, is Mucat Ottonel, it has less powerful aromas and lacks intensity.
Most wines that you find on grocery store shelfs labeled Moscato, are more than likely made from Muscat Alexandria grapes. Generally the grapes are grown in the Central Coast AVA in California. They are produced sweet, but will lack the intensity of a true Moscato d'Asti. This is a region in Piedmont, Italy that has been producing the most aromatic, deliciously sweet moscato wines, that show the complexity of Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains. Asti is also the area in Italy where Asti Spumante is produced. Martini and Rossi Asti Spumante has had its heyday, and millions of bottles have been enjoyed around the world. Most people still do not realize that this is made from their beloved Moscato. Producers of these wines are starting to label them as Asti Spumante Moscato to catch some of the action.
There are also other wines produced from this grape in even sweeter dessert styles, such as Vin Doux Naturels in France. These are made by adding pure grape spirit to the fermenting grape juice, arresting fermentation and leaving a residue of natural sugar in the wines. Usually these are sold in smaller bottles and are intoxicatingly complex, and deliciously sweet. These are also made from Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains grapes. Rutherglen Muscats from Australia have also gained recognition for their version of sticky sweet Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains.
These fragrant Moscato wines range from delicate to syrupy. Delicate, grapy styles match up with spicy Thai or Indian food, and are delightful to enjoy on their own. Sweeter styles go with a wide range of desserts incorporating fruit.
So when you are at the store wondering what to buy, price is relevant. The lower priced bottles labeled Moscato will not be as intensely flavored as Moscato d' Asti. So if you want to get a true sense of the grape try something from the Asti region, one of the original homes of this glorious grape.
Enjoy your Moscato- there is much to love!
Moscato is known for it's decadently sweet wines, that have flavors and aromas of orange blossom, apricots, and fresh picked peaches. The wine is considered a white wine, and has a golden colored hue. It can be purchased as a still wine, slightly effervescent, or as fully sparkling spumante styles. Dry or sweet wines are produced however, and the Muscat grape is rarely subtle in its characteristics, regardless of how it is vinified. It is the one grape variety that actually tastes like grapes, and is grown for table grapes as well as wine production.
Moscato is not something new, it is known to be the first grape variety that is the progenitor to all other grape varieties. There are three types of Muscat that are grown to produce wine. The first is Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains, this is the oldest grape variety that we have, and is the star of Muscat. This type produces the most refined wines with intense flavors, showing more depth and complexity. Muscat of Alexandria is less refined, and also grown for table grapes in California. The wines can be intense but lack the complexity of Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains. Lastly, is Mucat Ottonel, it has less powerful aromas and lacks intensity.
Most wines that you find on grocery store shelfs labeled Moscato, are more than likely made from Muscat Alexandria grapes. Generally the grapes are grown in the Central Coast AVA in California. They are produced sweet, but will lack the intensity of a true Moscato d'Asti. This is a region in Piedmont, Italy that has been producing the most aromatic, deliciously sweet moscato wines, that show the complexity of Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains. Asti is also the area in Italy where Asti Spumante is produced. Martini and Rossi Asti Spumante has had its heyday, and millions of bottles have been enjoyed around the world. Most people still do not realize that this is made from their beloved Moscato. Producers of these wines are starting to label them as Asti Spumante Moscato to catch some of the action.
There are also other wines produced from this grape in even sweeter dessert styles, such as Vin Doux Naturels in France. These are made by adding pure grape spirit to the fermenting grape juice, arresting fermentation and leaving a residue of natural sugar in the wines. Usually these are sold in smaller bottles and are intoxicatingly complex, and deliciously sweet. These are also made from Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains grapes. Rutherglen Muscats from Australia have also gained recognition for their version of sticky sweet Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains.
These fragrant Moscato wines range from delicate to syrupy. Delicate, grapy styles match up with spicy Thai or Indian food, and are delightful to enjoy on their own. Sweeter styles go with a wide range of desserts incorporating fruit.
So when you are at the store wondering what to buy, price is relevant. The lower priced bottles labeled Moscato will not be as intensely flavored as Moscato d' Asti. So if you want to get a true sense of the grape try something from the Asti region, one of the original homes of this glorious grape.
Enjoy your Moscato- there is much to love!
Sunday, March 9, 2014
Pinot Noir is a grape that I find fascinating , not only because it produces some of the greatest wine in the world, but it has a lightness and ethereal character that keeps you coming back for more.
Pinot Noir is a grape variety that is native to Burgundy, France. It can excel when Mother Nature provides the region with perfect growing conditions for the grape. That is just enough sun, with a dry, cool climate allowing for a long slow ripening period. Pinot Noir is finicky, demanding absolute perfect conditions to ripen fully. It's skin is thin making it susceptible to rot in humid environments, along with not being able to withstand excessive heat and hot sun.
Characteristics of the grape include aromas of raspberry, strawberry, cherry, lilac and forest floor, leather, even mushroom with an aged wine. Often finished wines are referred to in terms of texture, such as silk or satin.
Burgundy, France sets a standard for excellence with Pinot Noir wines, where the grape originated. On a fault line in an area known as the Côte d'Or , is where you will find some of the highest expressions possible in this grape. On marl and limestone soils that originated 180 to 170 million years ago, Cisterian monks have created 100% varietal wines here since 200 AD.
Vineyard land is segmented in a hierarchy from Grand Cru, Premier Cru, and Village wines, with Grand Cru coming from the most exceptional vineyards, with perfect eastern exposure to the sun. The wines here can age for decades developing layers of complexities. Out of the top fifty most expensive wines in the world, two thirds are Burgundy. At a recent auction, Henri Jayer's 1987 Richebourg Grand Cru, from Domaine de la Romanee Conti, received $14,397 a bottle!
While these wines are obviously out of reach, with the exception of the extraordinarily wealthy, good Burgundy can be experienced at Village level for about $30.00 a bottle.
Other regions in the United States, such as Willamette Valley in Oregon, along with California's Central Coast, Carneros, Russian River, and Santa Barbera are also producing an array of delicious Pinot Noir.
Willamette, Oregon is most notably compared to that of Burgundy in regards to climate. Here the wines must be composed of 90% of the grape variety, with quality conscience producers still making the wines with 100% of the grape variety.
In California many bargains can be found, but buyer beware, generally the fruity less expensive wines only need to be composed of 75% of Pinot Noir, with darker, richer grapes masking the subtlety of the Pinot Noir can offer.
You can find Pinot Noir in many parts of the world such as Champagne producing delicious Blanc de Noirs Sparkling wines, Spatburgunder in Germany's cool marginal climate, and New Zealand's Central Otago and Martinbourough, making wines with thrilling intensity.
One thing is for certain, there is much to be explored in this single grape variety. Once you discover it for yourself, it may too, become one of your personal favorites.
Pinot Noir is a grape variety that is native to Burgundy, France. It can excel when Mother Nature provides the region with perfect growing conditions for the grape. That is just enough sun, with a dry, cool climate allowing for a long slow ripening period. Pinot Noir is finicky, demanding absolute perfect conditions to ripen fully. It's skin is thin making it susceptible to rot in humid environments, along with not being able to withstand excessive heat and hot sun.
Characteristics of the grape include aromas of raspberry, strawberry, cherry, lilac and forest floor, leather, even mushroom with an aged wine. Often finished wines are referred to in terms of texture, such as silk or satin.
Burgundy, France sets a standard for excellence with Pinot Noir wines, where the grape originated. On a fault line in an area known as the Côte d'Or , is where you will find some of the highest expressions possible in this grape. On marl and limestone soils that originated 180 to 170 million years ago, Cisterian monks have created 100% varietal wines here since 200 AD.
Vineyard land is segmented in a hierarchy from Grand Cru, Premier Cru, and Village wines, with Grand Cru coming from the most exceptional vineyards, with perfect eastern exposure to the sun. The wines here can age for decades developing layers of complexities. Out of the top fifty most expensive wines in the world, two thirds are Burgundy. At a recent auction, Henri Jayer's 1987 Richebourg Grand Cru, from Domaine de la Romanee Conti, received $14,397 a bottle!
While these wines are obviously out of reach, with the exception of the extraordinarily wealthy, good Burgundy can be experienced at Village level for about $30.00 a bottle.
Other regions in the United States, such as Willamette Valley in Oregon, along with California's Central Coast, Carneros, Russian River, and Santa Barbera are also producing an array of delicious Pinot Noir.
Willamette, Oregon is most notably compared to that of Burgundy in regards to climate. Here the wines must be composed of 90% of the grape variety, with quality conscience producers still making the wines with 100% of the grape variety.
In California many bargains can be found, but buyer beware, generally the fruity less expensive wines only need to be composed of 75% of Pinot Noir, with darker, richer grapes masking the subtlety of the Pinot Noir can offer.
You can find Pinot Noir in many parts of the world such as Champagne producing delicious Blanc de Noirs Sparkling wines, Spatburgunder in Germany's cool marginal climate, and New Zealand's Central Otago and Martinbourough, making wines with thrilling intensity.
One thing is for certain, there is much to be explored in this single grape variety. Once you discover it for yourself, it may too, become one of your personal favorites.
Sunday, March 2, 2014
Champagne
I think that we have all had a glass of sparkling wine at one time or another. Generally it is brought out at special occasions, like weddings or New Years Eve events, but I enjoy sparkling wine year round. Actually, next to Pinot Noir it probably tops my list of favorite wines.
There are several types of sparkling wine made throughout the world, but the most widely recognized is Champagne. Champagne is actually a region in Northwestern France where grapes are grown to produce this bubbly concoction. It is governed by law as to the way the grapes are grown, how large the harvest can be, what type of grape varieties can be used, the fermentation process, and aging recommendations. First of all, Champagne can only be legally called Champagne if it comes from this delineated area of France. If sparkling wine is made outside of this area in France, it is simply known as cremánt, followed by the region from where it is produced. Example Cremánt d'Alsace, which is another region in France.
Sparkling wine is known by different names in other countries such as Sekt in Germany, Prosecco or Franciacorta in Italy, Cava in Spain, and simply Sparkling wine here in the United States. All have their own styles and types of grapes that are used.
Champagne can only use three different grape varieties by law, they are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. These grapes are also only permitted to grow in the five districts of Montagne de Reims, Valle de la Marne, Cote des Blancs, Cote de Sézanne, and Cote des Bars (Aube district). The grapes grown from these three regions are further classified into different status levels, based on the best land for growing conditions. This can also be part of the determining factor on the price that you pay for a finished bottle of wine.
Bubbles are created in wine by trapping the by products of alcoholic fermentation, which are carbon dioxide and ethanol, in a closed atmopshere. The carbon dioxide is then forced to integrate into the wine.There are also different ways in creating the bubbles in Champagne and Sparkling wines that are relevant to quality. The first and most tedious is known as Traditional Method. This is where a secondary alcoholic fermentation takes place in the same bottle in which it is sold as a final product. Other production methods are secondary fermentation taking place in a pressurized tank, and simple carbonation injection. The Traditional Method wines are always more developed and complex due to extended aging, and bottle fermentation, allowing the carbon dioxide to dissolve more thoroughly into the wine. This is also an obviously more expensive process than simple tank fermentation. Your most inexpensive bottles will generally employ the tank method, and the really cheap wines that you may see are more than likely simply carbonated, just like soda.
All sparkling wine is made in one of these general categories with a few exceptions such as Transversage, which is used for different bottle formats, Partial Fermentation Method for low- alcohol, sweet sparkling wines such as Moscato d' Asti (this is also tank method), and lastly, the Ancestral Method which is rarely encountered.
Sparkling wine is also made in a variety of sweetness levels to enjoy:
Brut- dry
Extra Dry- off dry
Sec- slightly sweet
demi-sec- sweet
Doux- very sweet
The next time you reach for a beverage try something sparkling- it has a way of bringing a special occasion to any day!
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